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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar high-end names. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest place earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.